The game of Texas Hold ‘Em commences with two bets known as blinds being made. The player to the left of the dealer will post a small blind and the person beside him will post the big blind. All players must then put in the same wager as the big blind in order to remain in that hand.

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Also, (2) you could just check call and see if you catch a favorable card.
Or (3) you could just check dump. Which would be your course of action?
I recently had an argument with a high profile player about the correct way to play this hand. This player is one of the world’s best, but I disagree wholeheartedly with the way the hand should be played. I’ll let you know later what I did, and what the high profile player thought I should have done.

Let me start my saying that I know almost nothing about Omaha/8 and even less about what’s inside a typical 300/600 players head – heck I just wanted to type an answer and see what I can come up with. I guess you figured a call was correct because of being shorthanded and in the BB? I’m not sure I play this hand. But, I guess that’s not your question….I think the flop that comes is scary for you; second pair, open-ended-idiot end-type-straight – smallish chance at winning low if it comes – a potential big loser??? I’m thinking the SB is weak. Depending how much respect the button as for you I think you bet only in hopes of folding him, but he’s going to raise 70% of every flop so I probably check/dump at this point and play a better hand against Mr. loose/aggressive when I’m surer I have the best of it. Did you ask yourself what you thought his pre-flop raise meant to you? What do you put him on? Has he been hammering at your BB all night? Maybe a bet and call (if button raises) would be good if the SB folds…then a check/fold on the turn if you get a total blank. Aside from being a rookie here, I think that Mr. High Profile has a big advantage over everyone here if he knows how the button plays……I guess if *you* think he might be on a bluff/steal then a bet/call on the flop is your best option. Look forward to both your thoughts.

You have many decent cards to catch-A23489. No way can you fold. However those cards are a lot better against one than two. I could go into more detail but I think I said enough to show that against a button raiser I would bet.

If you could put him on a hand, you would have to guess some kind of decent low possibility or very good high, or the other option is he has jack shit and you have to worry about your hand. I would bet in hopes the button raises and your heads up. Almost anything that could come doesn’t make you the nuts, but you’re short handed who cares. I would figure my eight to be possibly live; giving me three outs, although your open ended you may prefer the 9 for a high sweeper. But let’s say that is 8 more outs. Other outs are possibilities but it depends on play throughout the hand. And your low could end up being good. Also showing action to an action player is never bad. The way I figure it, if I have 25% of the cards in the deck and the understanding I do of play, and the ability to lay the hand down or take charge given the turn, lets gamble.

Answer 1:

Surely the creator of this dress code realizes that it MUST contain an important exception: THE HIPPIE EXEMPTION – Anyone who possesses a nickname beginning with “Hippie” (or “hippy”), and who has simultaneously become an institution in the poker world, in some part as a function of said nickname and adherence to standards of attire which reasonable people would associate with said nickname, is exempted from the long pants and collared shirt requirement contained in this dress code. (The same exemption applies to anyone whose nickname begins with “Tee-shirt”.)

Answer 2:

I am the guy who has set a dress code for the final table of the TOC. I do not consider our dress code a violation of anyone’s freedom. We are filming this event and plan to present the tape to potential sponsors. We are also hopeful that television is interested airing TOC 2000. Pro golfers are not allowed to wear shorts or T-shirts on the PGA Tour or make any “deals” in case there is a playoff. Why do you suppose that is? The dress code will only be enforced at the final table of the TOC. (We also are not
allowing headsets to be worn at the final table, something else that may be viewed by some as a violation of their freedom.) For those who do not want to abide by the regulations we have established, they certainly have the right to choose not to play.
Answer 3:

For championship events why not have the players at a final table have a Las Vegas casino or something sponsor them and they could sit there in those outfits that race car drivers wear, with the name of the hotel/casino all over the place. No helmet of course.

Answer 1:

I suggest two obvious possibilities for your lack of results:
1) Maybe you simply haven’t played enough sessions to be sure. It is not unusual to have a 2 month cold streak at low limit games -sometimes, it just seems like you can’t catch a hand. I’m not sure how many sessions two months worth is for you, but I have definitely had a few streaks of 20-25 sessions where I had only a handful of winning sessions. (And I beat the hell out of 3-6 in the long run).
2) Perhaps you are going on tilt? Based on your comments, it sounds to me like perhaps you are getting impatient and perhaps loosening up your play when you get frustrated. A typical 3-6 game truly is a waiting game where you simply have to show the best hand at the end. If you’re “tired of losing to trash and never being able to bluff”, you’re maybe playing the wrong game – that’s 3-6 for you. You must resist the temptation to “make things happen” and “let” them happen. (That doesn’t mean things like “don’t ever raise on the come” or “don’t bet the second nuts” – it does mean things like “you’re not going to be able to isolate that bad player pre-flop, and you better learn to recognize it and accept it.”)
So how do you improve your results?
1) Be patient – don’t get out of your game because of bad beats.
If you have to, take a 15 minute walk and come back with a new
attitude. You always want to be playing your best poker.
) In the meantime, work on reading other players – applying the “how to play” concepts of a competent poker book (I haven’t read WLLP, but don’t doubt that it provides solid advice on beating typical Hollywood Park 3-6 games) will only get you so far: eventually you have to start reading players. So pay attention to the other players – look at their eyes, faces, hands, betting motions, and listen to their voices, their words and other noises … try to learn general patterns that many players fall into and try to learn specific things that specific players do. (It’s a good way to keep from going on tilt too – it keeps you busy while you’re folding hand after hand.) Picking up reads is what turns break even “by the book” players into consistent winners.

Answer 2:

Basically laugustine is right, 3/6 is boring because you get to play very few hands and can’t really bluff; not to mention you are fighting against a rake and toke which will be a higher % of your winnings at this limit. If possible try picking loos(er) tables. You still won’t get to play many hands, but your winners should pay you off more.

Answer 3:

Perhaps you might try playing a bit tighter. If you look around the table and don’t see the fish, it’s you. Perhaps you might give more consideration to table selection. I also sometimes play 3-6 (and 6-12) at Hollywood Park and am modestly successful. (But at Omaha – not Texas hold ‘em. I play an average of one hand a round, exclusive of the big blind, which I almost always defend, just so people will not try to steal my big blind.) Sometimes before I get in a game I watch for a while. If I see people making mistakes that I would not make, then I want to join the game. If the game is very tight with few mistakes, unless I want to pay for a lesson, I may decide to do something else.

Answer 1:

Even though this is a situation involving equal action (check and check) on the river, I’m not exactly sure what you mean by “retrievable rule (best hand must win).” Do you mean that the local rule allows a player to retrieve his hand after he has thrown it away face-down? Or that he can retrieve it even if it has touched the muck? Or that he can retrieve it (by rummaging through the muck) even if it has become mixed with the muck? Or that the dealer may retrieve a hand that has been thrown away face-down? Or that the dealer may retrieve a hand that has been thrown away face-down and has touched the muck? Or that the dealer may retrieve a hand that has become mixed with the muck? Or that any other player at the table (either in the hand or not in the hand) may retrieve a hand that has been thrown away face-down? etc., etc., etc. Or that a floor man may……etc., etc., etc. or that a railbird may……etc., etc., etc.
I cannot conclusively answer your question until you explain what the local “retrievable rule” is. Generally, the only persons who might be entitled to retrieve a hand under this rule are the player himself and the dealer.
Note: the concept of the dealer acting on behalf of a player is anathema to most systems of rules. Generally, the dealer may expose a hand where there has been equal action only upon the request of a player who was in the hand, and then only after the hand has been killed. Generally, if any other player at the table (either in the hand or not in the hand) turns the discarded hand face-up, it is a violation of the “one player to a hand” rule, and such conduct is prohibited. That is, unless this occurred at Carson’s casual catch-as-catch-can card room, in which case the offender would be immediately hired as a shift supervisor.

Answer 2:

If I were the floor called to decide this, I would invoke the 1 player to a hand rule and declare the hand dead (i assume that “threw his hand in face down” meant with the appearance of intending to muck). I would also tell the offending player that he will have to leave if he again interferes with another player’s hand. Messy enough that it is better if it never happens. While it had not hit the
muck, I would enforce the spirit of the rules.

Answer 3:

If the face-down hand did not touch the muck (at the river), then the apparent winning hand may ask to see it and it plays. Players not involved at the river must stay out. Thus, the pair-of-queens had the right to ask to see the hand, but apparently didn’t ask. If the winning hand asked to see the hand, then it plays (it may win, lose, or split the pot depending on card speak). Live losing hands that showdown at the river may also ask to see mucked hands, but those mucked hands do not resurrect. Resurrection of mucked hands only occurs when the winner(s) ask to see them and only when it reasonably possible to retrieve the mucked hands. Asking to see mucked hands is generally considered poor etiquette, and should only be done, IMHO, when there is suspicion of collusion (better to advise a floor man and let him look privately at the mucked hands).

Answer 1:

I think hold’em has far more moves and strategy, but stud is far more complex and more difficult to fully comprehend and appreciate. The difference lies in the fact that it’s real easy to know what to do in stud, once you know what to do. In hold’em, the possibilities often are endless.

Answer 2:

The big difference between hold’em and stud is that the mechanical skill gap between players in stud is higher than in hold’em. What I mean is that in stud, there is more basic information available to you than in hold’em. This usually makes the correct play easier to select. In hold’em, there is less information, so you can’t always pick the correct play with as much confidence. This causes hold’em to seem much more like a crapshoot than stud is. Some people think this makes hold’em harder. Others think that effectively using ALL the information in stud makes it harder. Either way, I think it is easier for a mediocre player to gain a higher edge in stud (against the fish) than it is in hold’em.

Answer 3:

The majority of Hold’Em hands are decided by the flop. The majority of cards that improve your hand improve your opponent’s hand as well. With only 1,351 possible hands, the game is much more mathematical and, if played well, has a much lower variance.
Stud is much more about luck than Hold’Em.

Answer 1:

Ante them out. I’m assuming this is a question for tournament structures, as in a ring game you’d just receive a missed blind button in a flop game, and nothing besides potential rude comments from your opponents in a stud game.

Answer 2:

Some casinos give a button every time a dealer changes (usually about 20 minutes), After two or three dealers, they are pulled.

Answer 3:

The rule is made by the poker room. In a non-tournament game, I’ve seen the first player get 30 minutes, the second one to leave get 15 minutes away before their seat is forfeited. Some rooms have shorter limits if you have a waiting list.

Answer 1:

Raising pre-flop in Omaha, especially the loose low limit games, really is not too profitable of an idea. I think Ray Zee explained it best in his book when he states that most Omaha hands run pretty closely and thus pre-flop raising is more likely to result in high fluctuations rather than increased profits. Zee later explains raising as a move primarily done to buy the button and establish position. I think that this philosophy applies well to most Omaha games. Examining your specific hands, the KKQJ and the A237, I’d suggest that you almost never raise with the KKQJ (unless your trying to provide some deception in your play which should not be necessary in most poorly played Omaha games) as the KKQJ is basically a gamble to see a high only flop. It is rather rare that you will scoop a multi-way pot with this hand, and even rarer that you will get heads up in a loose game. Thus sticking to a get in cheap and jam it when favorable philosophy is probably best with that hand. The A237, on the other hand, you don’t mind putting in a lot of money up front, since you will probably lay claim to at least half the pot. Again though, it is a long shot to scoop as you will likely need to make a flush with the ace to grab the high. If your opponents are willing to stick around and draw, don’t bother chasing them out with early raises. Let them in and let them draw to their second nuts. Besides, if you raise and build a big pot before the flop, they may even be correct to chase to their mediocre lows or high hands, and who wants to create opportunities for your weak opponents to play correctly?

Answer 2:

I play in the same games at Canterbury (often waiting for bigger hold- em). I raise every hand I play, and I announce this when I sit down. I figure I have at least one of the best hands at the table, given that I raise the pot every time. On high hands I would prefer to thin the field, though since I raise every time it often does not happen. Oh well. I’ll have to out flop them. Often I raise and fold an unfavourable flop while everyone else is still in, in these games most of your profits will come from advantageous lay downs. Because I am seen as action I often get up to 5 callers on the river. His advice is not the advice I think Ray Zee would give you because you
have to change your style to suit the game. If you have the best or second best hand raise. If you don’t, wait for a better hand.
Answer 3:

A237 is a raise. I don’t worry about knocking people out. Most will groan and throw their two bets in because the truth is that in Omaha the weak players (i.e. most players) will pay 2 bets on the same garbage they’ll pay one bet on. After all, “you don’t have anything ’til you see the flop”. A basic rule in poker is that you can’t generally go wrong wagering more money against a guy with a weaker hand. Just be aware that because of increased variance, you will need a much bigger bankroll to harvest those
extra profits.